Brand new column celebrates the joys of cooking and the importance of supporting local businesses
Let’s take a quick survey. By a show of hands, how many of you have spent the last couple of months overindulging? That’s OK. And how many of you are super stoked about a dry January and a return to moderation and regular exercise? Yeah, that’s what I thought. For many of us, the weeks between Thanksgiving and New Years Day are a heady mix of intemperance and debauchery that can only be remedied by a swift and sober resolution to mend our ways. If January can be summed up in one word, it’s repentance. All those pecan pies, the mac and cheese, and the five-gallon bucket of eggnog you brought home from Costco now seem like a bad idea—the culinary equivalent of licking a frozen lamppost.
If the holidays have left your belt needing an extra notch and your liver begging for some respite, you’ve probably pledged to make some changes as we move into 2022. The $1.5 trillion global health and wellness industry gets a boost each January as people extract themselves from their couches, buy a new pair of running shoes, renew their gym memberships, and make an earnest promise to stick with the regimen this time. If you’re on the fence, there’s no better way of closing a chapter of indulgence and turning a new page than taking part in a polar bear plunge. Submerging yourself into a frigid Atlantic Ocean on New Years Day is a baptismal reset switch that sets the tone for the upcoming weeks of renewal and regeneration. Not least because you’re reminded how you look in a swimsuit.
In addition to having a healthful and alcohol-free month, the biggest change I will make this January is fixing more meals at home. Readers of 2020’s Vegging Out column will know that my wife and I are ardent supporters of our local restaurants. That’s unlikely to change, but we’ve made a pledge this year to prepare more homecooked meals, all while exploring more small businesses, and other local cottage industries. Each month, I’ll share a recipe featuring ingredients sourced from local vendors. I’m not a chef, so don’t worry, none of the dishes will be complicated. I’ve got no fancy kitchen equipment, and nothing will be julienned, flambeed, or chiffonaded.
Since January is generally the coldest month in the Palmetto State, let’s start with a soup. On a recent visit to the Sea Island Farmers Market on Johns Island, my eye was drawn to a farm stand with fruit that looked like it had fallen straight from the pages of a Dr. Seuss book. David from Wishbone Heritage Farms in St George explained that they were candy roaster squash.
These heirloom 10lb beasts were first bred by members of the Cherokee Nation and have gorgeous orange flesh with a sweet and delicate nutty flavor. Too bulky and ugly for grocery store shelves, you’re more likely to find these at your local farmer’s market. They keep well and can be made into pies, casseroles, or in this case a complex, creamy soup that’s easy to customize with your own favorite flavors. Try adding curry or chipotle chili peppers for something a little different.
Aaron O’Brien is a native of Great Britain. He and his wife Christina make up local musical duo Oh Valentino. When they’re not performing, they’re in their West Ashley kitchen trying to prepare something their kids will eat.
