The Fantastic Farmhouse Ale

The Saison style has seen a spike in popularity recently, and it’s no mistake. This ‘farmhouse ale’ is a true original, and one of the few spring to summer styles that is complex yet accessible. Further, the beer has an interesting history.
Saisons are an old world beer, brewed strong by farmers in the winter and the months up to spring to be consumed and to last through the hot days of summer. The brewing of Saisons during the winter months allowed for workers on farms to stay busy during the down season. The spent grains from the brewing process served as a quality feed for livestock. And this refreshing style of beer eventually became a safe drink to revive farmhands during summer.
One unique aspect of saison ales is their widely ranging variability from brewery to brewery. I have had dark ones and light ones, hoppy ones and dry fruity ones; very few are completely alike. Still, when you order a saison, expect a refreshing beer, typically dry yet fruity and well carbonated.
Historically, the key to a successful saison was making a beer that was robust enough to last up to and during the summer season, yet be refreshing. While typically fruity, from the esters, and spicy, from the hops and yeast, these beers should have enough malt to give a foundation to the other flavors, nevertheless can be tart and quite sour.
The classic and standard of the style is Saison Dupont from Brasserie Dupont, in Wallonia, a French-speaking region of Belgium. This is a slightly strong ale, cloudy, dark yellow with a fluffy, almost champagne-like head. The beer is not only well hopped, but also fruity, dry and refreshing. The yeast is distinct and perfectly suited to satisfy a summer thirst.
Although Saison Dupont is the hands down classic, it’s the American-brewed saisons that are increasingly exciting. Varieties range from similar in style to Dupont to over the top craft beer madness. Hennepin, from Brewery Ommegang in New York goes a step beyond standard with additions of grains of paradise, ginger, coriander and sweet orange peel. A bit bolder than the Belgian original, this is a world-class beer.
Saison Rue, from California’s The Bruery, is a rustic and stronger saison. The distinction here is the addition of malted rye for an even spicier, outdoorsy flavor. At 8.5% ABV (alcohol by volume), this is no tame yellow beer.
Just as some Belgian brewers do, American craft brewers put their own stamp on a beer by using different ingredients. Brooklyn Brewery has Sorachi Ace, a saison brewed with a Japanese-developed Sorachi Ace hop which imparts a lemon zest or lemongrass flavor. Heavy Seas Beer from Clipper City Brewery has Red Sky at Night, a saison ale brewed with Belgian candi sugar.
Saisons are distinctive beers, with characteristics of pilsners, wheats, malty lagers and even pale ales. Certainly try this little Belgian ale with a twist, now made in America, and see what the wide world of beer has to offer. Enjoy the brews … Cheers.
Gene’s Haufbrau has more than 200 beers in bottles or on tap. Gene’s is located at 817 Savannah Hwy. 225-GENE. E-mail the Beer Snob at publisher@westof.net.