Kowalski Deli brings the flavors of Eastern Europe to West Ashley
by Christine England | Contributing Writer
Growing up in Rhode Island, I have vivid memories of being a child and walking into the butcher shop, the fish place, or the small local grocery store. I remember being greeted and the owners taking time to chat with my grandparents, asking how the family was, business, and more. I don’t know if adult life was simpler then, but as a child, I sensed a connected, close-knit community. Having lived all over the country as an adult, it’s something I haven’t witnessed as much. However, that has changed.
Walking into the newly opened Kowalski Deli in the Quadrangle Shopping Center in West Ashley really was a step back in time for me. It smelled new, but the feeling was one of familiarity. It was the feeling I was a part of something bigger than just a deli. The excitement from the owners about their new endeavor was infectious. I could envision walking up to people sitting outside while working, talking, enjoying soup and a sandwich.
Owners Gosia and Marek Rogala and Victor Krupa were all there greeting customers from the moment the doors opened. While they were happy to chat with me, helping customers choose products, letting them know what they had to offer, and engaging in daily conversation was understandably their priority. Where an interviewer may want undivided attention, I reveled in watching them do their thing and got a true understanding of what Kowalski Deli truly is all about. It’s a Polish deli/grocer that’s a central spot for their community while also welcoming everyone with open arms.
When I spoke to Gosia, who is also the vice president of the Polish American Society of Charleston, I asked her how the community has embraced them. She gushed about people thanking them for bringing a deli/grocer like this to Charleston. Not only does this create an alcove for the Polish community through cooking traditions, but it also brings Charleston a cuisine that’s rich in meats. Something most of us can get behind.
Many of the niche products that you would find in a Polish deli in New York or Chicago are now easily found amongst the deli cases, coolers, and shelves throughout Kowalski Deli. While pictures from various Polish cities flank the walls, it is clear from watching customers that the deli and hot food cases are unquestionably the focal point. From everyone’s favorite kielbasa and snacking sausages to pork loaf, stuffed bacon, and the owners’ collective favorite: the tongue head cheese, there truly is something for everyone. Customers have the option to have a sandwich made with some traditional polish cheese on specialty bread or to-go items that can be enjoyed at home.
Kowalski Deli also offers a myriad of hot dishes, including a daily soup, the popular pierogies, stuffed cabbage rolls, and one I believe will quickly become a favorite, kotlet schabowy, a traditional Polish breaded and fried pork cutlet served with sides.
While the shelves are brimming with products to make your own dishes (Gosia has her own YouTube Cooking Channel if you need help), the coolers offer cheeses, frozen soups, pierogies, and more.
Krupa, who also owns Krystyna’s Polish Food Truck, enthusiastically talks about his new endeavor, which creates a homebase for people to find Polish foods. While owning a food truck is rewarding, it has a level of difficulty getting people to various locations throughout the Lowcountry.
Having limited experience with Polish cuisine, I questioned whether there’s a place for someone like me who may not know how to use these ingredients.
“We will tell people ideas on how to serve,” Krupa says. “If they want to buy kielbasa we can give suggestions, like kielbasa on bread or in a dish.” He lights up when talking about the “book of requests,” a space where customers can write down food requests. Whether it’s traditional Polish dishes for them to serve at the store or grocery items, Kowalski Deli is happy to oblige customers’ requests if possible. Just one more way they go above and beyond.
As Gosia gave me a tour of the space, she spoke about festivals like Harvest Fest and the upcoming Polish Winter Festival, known as Oplatek, on Saturday, Dec. 9. She even talked about the speed pierogi-making contest which led me to ask, any cooking classes in the future? Her response was not surprising. “I would love to teach the tradition of Polish cooking because it is our responsibility (as adults) so it doesn’t get lost on the future generations,” she says.
At the end of the day, there’s one thing that makes Kowalski Deli an authentic Polish deli, and that is it truly delivers a level of genuine customer service with a sense of community that makes you want to come back again and again.
Kowalski Deli is open 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. It’s located at 630 Skylark Dr. Suite C. For more information, call (843) 297-4112 or visitkowalskideli.com.
