Last week was a reminder that spring is jut around the corner. At least that’s what brewers in the american craft beer world would have you believe. Lighter, spritzy, bright beers have already begun popping up on shelves from my grocer to my local bottle shop. What the heck, did I miss something?
Pause for a moment and remember that it’s still january, we’ve not even crossed into the bizarre weather of February. Let’s take a second and live in the present, experience some mindfulness, if you will. In doing so, we find that no medium-bodied, effervescent ale will assist us in battling the elements of winter; hell, the first day of spring is still two months away.
Picture for a moment, it’s the 19th century, and England is a beer exporter surpassed by none. The British sent their beers all over the world. The darker ales were brewed strong and hoppy to withstand the trip across the North and Baltic Seas to the Baltic States. The darkest and strongest of these beers gained favor with the Russian royalty of the time, and were soon dubbed Imperial stouts, or Russian Imperial stouts.
Russian Imperial stouts are often opaque black in color, with dark tan heads. The higher the alcohol level, the less head will be present. Aromas and flavors are both strong and complex. Heavy on malt, roasted and rich, these can offer extreme levels of dark chocolate and coffee. Dark fruits can be present and a burnt quality is sometimes noticeable. Dryness and sweetness is possible; full-bodied, smooth and intense.
Knowing that the trend on most beer websites and magazine top 50 lists is to offer a plethora of beers you’ll likely never taste, brewed by a far flung brewery you’ve never heard of, I’ll suggest a few that are widely available. Further, I’m sticking with standard Russian Imperial Stouts and not the more trendy overly flavored, adjunt and addition laiden options in vogue with the clever kids.
While English stouts are relatively hard to come by compared with Irish dry stouts and, of course, American stouts, true English-made Russian Imperial stouts are extremely rare. I have only ever sampled two versions. Samuel Smith’s Imperial stout is lower in alcohol than many, 7 percent alcohol by volume (ABV), and has a roasted and espresso quality. Le Coq Imperial Extra Double Stout is stronger, 10 percent ABV, and closer to what might have been this style of beer years ago: raw, black, molasses and burnt malt.
The bulk of Russian Imperial Stouts available are American made. Many of these are wonderful beers, highly prized, and suitable for cellaring. Brooklyn Brewery’s Black Chocolate Stout is a beast of a brew, all chocolate and alcohol (10.6 percent ABV). Buy a 6-pack and drink one every year to notice how it ages.
Great Divide’s Yeti Imperial Stout has strong coffee and fudge nuances that compete with west-coast hops. The oak-aged version brings oak and vanilla to the mix without overpowering the hops. Both are 9.5 percent ABV.
Two of my favorites come from opposite sides of the country. Old Rasputin from North Coast brewing in California is slightly lighter in color than the others, and offers coffee, dark, rich caramel and strong citrus hops. Very little carbonation makes this one smooth ale.
From Pennsylvania comes Victory Brewing’s Storm King stout. At 9.1 percent ABV, when fresh, this is a powerful, hoppy, chocolate beer. After time, the hops fade, and you are left with a warming, dark chocolate and molasses milkshake-like treat.
Beers that are meant to be savored, sipped, and taken slowly, whether on their own or as a dessert or an after-dinner drink, Russian Imperial Stouts will warm you in the dead of winter, and challenge your palate. Enjoy the brews … Cheers.
Gene’s Haufbrau has at more than 200 beers in bottles or on tap. While they don’t have every beer the Beer Snob writes about, they probably have most.. E-mail the Beer Snob at publisher@westof.net.
