A group of friends convened at a relatively new sports bar to take in a game last weekend. Expecting most American macro lagers and light crap beers, I was actually surprised to find two very good porters on tap: the slightly unusual Highland Oatmeal Porter (the addition of ground oats being the curious aspect of this dark ale), and the more classic but certainly Americanized Bell’s Porter. Fantastic finds for sure.
To many, porter is just the younger sibling of stout, and a beer style that is often overlooked. In truth, porter is more like the father, as stronger, richer, more ‘stout’ versions of porter actually evolved into what we today call stout ale. And, while this lovely dark ale that we call porter can be less intense than some stouts, it’s no less of a beer.
The standard type of porter is known as brown or English porter. This beer is usually low to moderate in alcohol, with a sweeter, softer, creamier essence. Caramel flavors are often present, with a gentle roasted character that borders on chocolate; malt is strong with hops being on a lower level. These porters are typically dark amber to brown in color.
A later day creation, robust porter is usually associated with American versions of the style. The roasted quality is present in the smell, but hop fragrance is moderate to strong as well. A burnt flavor is often present, with less sweetness, more of a roasted grain feeling; hops will be bitter and strong. Fuller bodied than English, robust porters can be well carbonated and astringent; flavors are slightly more complex.
The last and most elusive form of this dark ale is known as Baltic porter. Strong and hearty versions of brown porter were brewed to high alcohol levels to make the journey from England across the North Sea. Countries bordering the Baltic Sea began brewing these higher gravity porters, and the style was born. Baltic porters are the strongest of the lot, with sweet flavors mixing alongside licorice, dark fruit, and tones of sherry or port. Leaning toward the robust style, but not too far removed from the brown version, Bell’s Porter is a damn fine, solid dark ale that perfectly fits the bill for nasty winter weather.
The label shows what looks to be a porter carrying ingredients for beer. Pours up almost black with a huge head of creamy, medium-sized bubbles. Begins to leave a great design of lace on the glass as the head slowly drops down.
Aroma is chocolate and cola at first. After a moment, seems to be more bittersweet chocolate, a bit more earthy. Definitely malt dominant and quite roasted.
Taste is more in the coffee range, more dry and sharp than the smell; still, a fight between the bittersweet chocolate and a cold cup of black coffee with some underlying chocolate for good measure. A touch of smoke shows up in the aftertaste. Quite roasted, and gets more so as it warms.
Mouthfeel is not as great as I had expected, a bit thinner than I would have hoped for, with a moderate amount of carbonation. Still, this is a tasty ale, and a great cold weather beer. A pretty good American porter, one I’d drink anytime. Enjoy the brews … Cheers.
Gene’s Haufbrau has at more than 200 beers in bottles or on tap. While they don’t have every beer the Beer Snob writes about, they probably have most. Gene’s is located at 817 Savannah Hwy. 225-GENE. E-mail the Beer Snob at publisher@westof.net.
