The New World Beer

Last weekend, the guys at Hi-Wire Brewing Company in Asheville, NC put on the event How Do You LagerFest, an affair in honor of the cold fermenting beer. To be fair, I’m buddies with one of the co-owners, but still, I’m a big fan of the brewery; there’s almost always a 6-pack of Bed of Nails brown ale in my fridge, and I think their artwork and brewing selections are fantastic.
But of more interest is the fact that the mountain men of Hi-Wire decided to kick off fest season with a lager exclusive event. The world’s revolutionary beer, the world’s best seller, the style that encompasses the most different brand names is not always just cheap, yellow, fizzy crap, and lager is getting a ton of deserved press these days. So, what exactly is the big deal with lager, and why should you not just grab the first cold bottle you see?
Lager is a late-comer to the brewing game. A bottom fermented beer, the yeast takes longer to work its magic as it slowly makes its way to the bottom of the container. The yeast that helps to create lager beer is of a cold temperature style, and the introduction of the style came along with the rudimentary cooling techniques that were discovered in the 15th century.
There are numerous tasty, interesting, world-class lagers available right now that are not overwhelming malt bombs, yet also are not the bastardized version of lager you see promoted in commercials; sad attempts at what should be amazing beer. Here are a few different types of lagers and suggestions for solid examples of the style.
Of the classic types of golden, new world lagers, Germany boasts two favorites. First is Munich Helles, the standard session beer of Bavaria, a malt-oriented beer that will be a touch sweeter than your average lager. Think of a faintly spicy Pilsner with more malt backbone, smoother, with only a moderate amount of carbonation. Most examples, like Weihenstephaner Original and Hacker-Pschorr Münchner Gold are straight outta Germany. But with Victory Lager and Stoudt’s Gold Lager, you have very honorable American versions to choose from.
Next is a rare little gem of a beer from northwest Germany, Dortmunder Export. A more balanced version of the helles lager, “Dort” or “Export” will be a bit malty in the mouth and hoppier in the finish, but smooth and crisp throughout, a bit more dry than either Helles or better American lagers. Along with the requisite pair of German offerings, one of my favorite golden lagers is Dortmunder Gold from Great Lakes. Quite possibly the best standard lager made in America, this beer is tasty, balanced yet hops and malt are noticeable, flavorful yet clean. Brilliant.
Related to the macro American version, but miles better, is Premium American or All-Malt lager. Somewhat grainy and malty, with a hint of hops, this style will have more mouthfeel and body than light lagers, although will still be refreshing and generally clean. Brooklyn Lager is the choice for those wanting more of a challenge, a true all-malt lager; a smooth and friendly option is Full Sail’s Session Lager, very laidback. Refreshing and pleasing, tasty yet unassuming, this is what good lager should be. And, welcome to beer fest season folks. Enjoy the brews … Cheers.
Gene’s Haufbrau has at more than 200 beers in bottles or on tap. While they don’t have every beer the Beer Snob writes about, they probably have most. Gene’s is located at 817 Savannah Hwy. 225-GENE. E-mail the Beer Snob at publisher@westof.net.