To many, porter is just the younger sibling of stout, and a beer style that was once overlooked. In truth, porter is more like the father, as stronger, richer, more ‘stout’ versions of porter actually evolved into what we today call stout ale.
Examples of porter, previously hard to come by, now adorn shelves everywhere. At least half a dozen true English porters are widely available. And, of the robust style, typically associated with the American version of the beer, I can think of 10 or more brewery offerings right off the top of my head.
But, for a real and unique treat, it’s the Baltic porter style that comes highly recommended. Although more breweries are attempting this style, quality examples are still infrequent. With alcohol levels that reach double digits, and roasted flavors and sweet notes being high, Baltic porter is a delicious option for the cold winter months.
Historically, strong and hearty versions of standard porter were brewed to high alcohol levels to make the journey from England across the North Sea. Countries bordering the Baltic Sea began brewing these higher gravity porters, and the style was born.
These strong, dark ales from Finland, Poland, and Russia are highly recommended, and their rich flavors, yet none too sharp or astringent in nature is a real treat. With sweet flavors mixing alongside licorice, dark fruit, and tones of sherry or port, full-bodied, Baltic porters impart an alcoholic warmth that underlies the malt dominance.
A small brewery out of Farmville, North Carolina has made a name for itself creating dark ales of impeccable flavor and texture. Self-dubbed “The Dark Beer Specialist,’ Duck Rabbit Microbrewery has been turning out dark deliciousness since 2004. The brewery offers seven seasonal ales, but one in particular is a gem. Easily one of my favorite ‘hard to find’ seasonal beers, and probably the best of Duck Rabbit’s once-a-year brews, the Baltic Porter is delectable.
Duck Rabbit makes great beer, and the darker the better – This is one of the darkest. The Baltic Porter checks in at 9.0 percent alcohol by volume (AVB). When poured into a pint glass, the beer appears near pitch black, with deep brown highlights around the edge when held to the light. The head is dark caramel and fluffy.
Sweet malt comes off beer in waves; this is a super malty beer, almost no hops to be found, but it’s definitely a porter, and not a stout or old ale. I was tempted to smell this beer for hours, as dark chocolate and rich caramel meld with ripe cherry.
Taste is richness, if that makes sense. I found a hint of dates or raisin in there as well. But the malt dominance is at the fore, with rich chocolate and coffee leading the way, dark fruits following.
Some roasted and smoky notes are also in the mix near the back of the mouth and at the end of the glass as the beer has warmed fully. I can not have too many of these at one sitting, the mouthfeel is full and the beer is quite rich, but I have and will buy it every year, and have tried to save one from every batch to taste down the line. This is extremely hard to do, as this is an amazing beer; it’s usually gone before I realize it. Duck Rabbit’s Baltic Porter is out now, grab some before it disappears. Enjoy the brews … Cheers.
Gene’s Haufbrau has at more than 200 beers in bottles or on tap. While they don’t have every beer the Beer Snob writes about, they probably have most. Gene’s is located at 817 Savannah Hwy. 225-GENE. E-mail the Beer Snob at publisher@westof.net.