Dark and Wheaty

As we begin the slow, sometimes painfully long descent into fall, you will likely see fewer and fewer summer beers available in stores and on taps, many being replaced by the darker and more robust beers of fall. Its barely August, and most of us in the south are quite ready for the cooler temps and signs of autumn, but the continued sweltering days just do not lend themselves to these richer, stronger beers.
There are very few if any beers that are not completely light and breezy, such as summer beers like pilsner, wheat and Kölsch, yet do not move into the stronger categories of the fall beers like Marzen, all-malt lager and ESB. One option is the darker side of the wheat family called dunkelweizen, or dark wheat beers. A dark and maltier version of the hefeweizen, the dunkel will still have noticeable hefe characteristics of clove and banana flavors and smell and the bready or grainy elements of wheat.
Both styles will offer little or no hop presence or bitterness, opting for a tartness and gentle sourness, with the dunkel being a bit sweeter than the hefe. While noticeable, the malt flavors and aromas will not dominate the wheat aspects of the beer, but will play a complimentary role. You might think of a dunkelweizen being a mix between a standard wheat beer and a Munich dark lager. Rich, tangy and supple, without being heavy or extremely complex and filling.
Most of the best examples of dunkelweizen available are from Germany. Weihenstephaner has probably the best, classic example of a dunkel. Most of the other southern Germany breweries have solid examples of the style. I had a Tucher Dunkles Hefe Weizen recently. Brewed in Nurnberg, Germany, this 5.35 percent alcohol by volume (ABV) dark wheat beer was quite delicious. American made dunkelweizen are somewhat harder to come by. I only know of and have tried a handful of them brewed in our country. Even so, a wonderful example is available from Great Divide Brewing Company, out of Denver.
One of the better craft breweries in the country, boasting a great stable of year-round beers, and an even better selection of seasonals, I have yet to go wrong with their brews. Their Titan IPA is excellent, and the winter seasonal Hibernation Ale is one of my all time favorites. But, their Dunkel Weiss Dark Wheat Ale is a beer you should try today, if you can locate it. Dunkel Weiss is part of Great Divide’s seasonal series.
Remove the red foil wrapper and pop the top, the dark wheat ale pours up muddy and deep crimson, and shows fiery when held to the light. A fluffy head of light tan sits atop the beer. Smells of wheat and malt arise and are joined by the expected clove as well as ripe banana. There may be some brown sugar in there too. Flavors begin in much the same way, with sweet brown bread and maybe even a nutty hint followed by those standard wheat tastes. Not much bitterness in this one, and it leans more toward the Munich dunkel than the hefeweizen.
Dunkel Weiss is medium to medium-light bodied, and while creamy, it does offer some carbonation. This results in a lighter than average mouthfeel and overall beer. And, at 6.4 percent ABV, this could easily be a solid late summer session beer. On the label, Great Divide suggests pairing this beer with roasted chicken, potatoes au gratin, pan-fried trout, or pecan pie. “If you like wheat beers, come to the Dunkel side. You won’t be disappointed. Just don’t put any lemon in it.” That about sums it up. Enjoy the brews … Cheers.
Gene’s Haufbrau has at more
than 200 beers in bottles or on tap. “
Gene’s is located at 817 Savannah Hwy.  225-GENE. E-mail the Beer Snob at publisher@westof.net.