Many wine drinkers I’ve known held the mistaken belief that, while their grape-derived beverage of choice is a complex and beautiful one, beer on the other hand is one-dimensional and brutish, a tonic for college kids and working men, something to be chugged ice cold straight from the bottle, not sipped and savored in just the right glass. That’s just not true. So if vino is your drink of choice, I hope you give this week’s selection a try.
Lambics are wheat beers of exceptionally complex character, and an even more unique history. Lambics are possibly the oldest beer style still made in commercial facilities. Originating in Belgium’s Senne valley, lambics are at least 30 percent wheat, yet unlike German wheat (weizen) beers, this wheat is unmalted. Even more interesting, whereas most beers are created from specifically chosen, strictly cultured yeast strains, lambics are borne from spontaneous fermentation in which wild yeast and other natural ingredients in the air react with and convert the barley and wheat in open top barrels into alcohol. The result is a very sharp, tart, non-beer like flavor, reminiscent of a good sauvignon blanc. As a lambic ages, the tartness mellows, and fruity, earthy tones arise.
While true, unblended lambics are rare in this and other countries, aside from Belgium (try the brand Cantillion if you happen upon one), there are a few twists on the lambic theme that you can find. Biere de Mars and Faro are both low alcohol versions of limbic, with the former having no adjuncts, the latter often sweetened with caramelized brown candi sugar.
Gueuze is the most widely available version of lambic around the world. To compete with the sometimes powerful flavors of a fresh lambic, an aged batch is mixed in and allowed to age for a time, with the result, gueuze, being less tart, a bit of a cider taste, and delicious. No hop presence is noticeable in these beers. Although hops are added, they are present for their antiseptic properties.
Most versions of lambic readily available are fruit blended ales. The addition of large amounts of whole fruit causes further fermentation to the beer, and the sweet flavors blend wonderfully with the tart aspect of the brew. Fruits such as cherries (kriek), blackberries (frambroise), peaches (pêche), black currant (cassis), even apricot, Muscat and other grapes, and banana are fair game for the style.
Although not completely traditional, the fruit blended lambics from Lindemans Brewery in Brussels are lovely drinks for the right occasion. Unlike their classic cousins, Lindemans’ beers are adjusted for taste with 25-28 percent fruit juice, after the initial infusion of whole fruit. These beers are perfect served along with brunch, fruit and cheese, or in place of champagne or sparkling wine.
The beers take on the color of the respective fruit, with the head a fluffy, off-white tint of the same shade. smells are sweet and gentle. Tastes are crisp, tart and sweet, with just a hint of alcohol — it’s like if beer were made by Snapple. Lots of carbonation help to pass the tartness over the tongue, but finishes clean. Most of these are 4 percent alcohol by volume (ABV). Lindemans lambics are served in squat, thick, mini-champagne looking bottles, corked and capped with tin-foil. An interesting treat, a change of pace, and a beer mom will love. I hope she enjoys the brews … Cheers.
Gene’s Haufbrau has at more than 200 beers in bottles or on tap. While they don’t have every beer the Beer Snob writes about, they probably have most. Gene’s is located at 817 Savannah Hwy. 225-GENE. E-mail the Beer Snob at publisher@westof.net.

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